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Half a lifetime ago, I ate a duck salad at a bistro in Nolita that was so severely disappointing that I still think about it from time to time. The duck skin was flabby and it tasted vaguely like lighter fluid. My best guess is that the kitchen tried to crisp the skin quickly over high heat instead of giving the fat time to render slowly. Twenty-something year old me was too meek to speak to the manager, but today I wouldn’t hesitate. Anyone who works in food and beverage knows that there is really only one rule when preparing duck breast: the duck skin must be crispy.
The most important thing you can do for crispy duck skin actually happens the day before you cook it. Salt the duck breasts and refrigerate them uncovered for 24 hours. This seasons the meat and, more importantly, gives the surface time to dry out. Right before cooking, score the skin in a crosshatch pattern. Don’t cut down into the meat; you’re simply creating channels for the fat to escape.
Then start the duck in a cold pan. This is not the moment to get impatient and crank up the heat. Place the duck skin-side down in a cold pan over medium-low heat and let the fat render gradually, about 10 to 12 minutes. Pour off the rendered fat as needed, leaving about 1 tablespoon in the pan. Once the skin is golden and most of the fat has rendered, add a garlic clove and some thyme. Then increase the heat to medium-high and let the skin get properly crisp.
Flip the duck and cook for another 1 to 3 minutes, until it reaches 130–135°F. Transfer it to a plate and let it rest skin-side up. Resting it skin-side up keeps the steam from softening that beautiful crisp skin you just worked so hard to create.
These are one of the elements that make this salad feel like something you might order at a restaurant, but they’re extremely easy to make at home.
Whisk together 1 egg white and 1 tablespoon water. Toss with 8 ounces raw pistachios, 5 tablespoons sugar, ½ teaspoon ground ginger, ¼ teaspoon ground clove, ½ teaspoon kosher salt, and black pepper.
Spread the pistachios onto a baking sheet and bake at 350°F for 35 minutes, stirring once. Let them cool before adding them to the salad. They’ll crisp up as they cool.
This is a simple vinaigrette, but pomegranate molasses gives it a depth and tartness that you don’t get from vinegar alone.
To make it you’ll need:
The Dijon helps emulsify the dressing while the pomegranate molasses brings sweetness and acidity. If you’ve never made your own pomegranate molasses, it’s worth keeping some around. It’s excellent in salad dressings and can also be used anywhere you might reach for a balsamic glaze.
For the salad, you’ll need:
One of the best parts of cooking duck breast is the amount of fat it renders.
Strain it and save it in the refrigerator. Duck fat is fantastic for roasting potatoes, crisping vegetables, or doing pretty much anything that benefits from a little extra flavor and excellent browning. You went to all the trouble of rendering it. You might as well get a second meal out of it.
Kosher salt
4 duck breasts (6-8 oz. each)
2 smashed garlic cloves
a few sprigs of thyme
2 bunches of lacinato kale, stems removed
1 large head of radicchio
2 small or 1 large fennel bulb
the arils of one pomegranate
black pepper
1 egg white
1 tbsp water
8 oz. raw pistachios
5 tbsp sugar
½ tsp ground ginger
¼ tsp ground clove
1/2 tsp Kosher salt
1/4 tsp ground black pepper
3 tbsp pomegranate molasses (store bought or HOMEMADE)
3 tbsp balsamic vinegar
3 tbsp red wine vinegar
1 tsp Dijon mustard
2 clove of garlic
6 tbsp avocado oil
6 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
Kosher salt and black pepper
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Sarah is a classically trained chef and Mom whose passion is spreading the gospel of salad. A native New Yorker, she now calls Miami, FL home.
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